7 Lessons from My Solo Ride to Leh & Back

On 17th August 2017, I saw the opportunity to go on every rider's dream ride - Leh. I secured a complete week-long leave and started from Chhattarpur, New Delhi, on Saturday, 19th August. The first stop was planned at Manali, and from the start, the weather outside had been more active than usual. 

This ride was going to be quite eventful. I hadn't announced it in the group. And the only other person who knew and could've accompanied me on the ride needed more leaves. So, it was just me. I realized that when you are the only student in the class, teachers often pay more attention to your education. 

1. Roads are Better

The roads are 50% of the total adventure package of your Leh ride. And frankly, they've been improving. Even in 2018, the Leh-Manali highway was far better than the stories we grew up with that instilled this incredible sense of Leh adventure. Reaching Manali was a cakewalk so far as the roads are concerned.

There are still a few points where you can experience the road-thrill on this road.

• First, when you see the mountains on the horizon for the first time at Swarghat.
• The second fun point was when you'd start riding for Manali from Mandi. However, these points have now almost disappeared with the introduction of new tunnels.
• The third thrill was when you crossed the small bridge over Beas and entered Kullu.
• Fourth was the Tihri Dam tunnel. Now, the scenes are very different. If you still had some daylight left after crossing this only tunnel, you'd experience more scenic views and several more points on the road. But now you will come across more tunnels than mountains until Manali.

After this, you could see several more scenic points on the way to Rohtang Pass. Sadly, Rohtang Pass is no longer open to two-wheelers. 

2. Pack Your Stuff for Rains

Ahh! Rains! I packed my clothing and equipment in plastic before putting them in the saddlebags. Then, I also covered the saddlebags with their rain covers. It started pouring as soon as I left the gate of my housing complex. I was thankful that I did all that, and I continued cause when you are on a highway cruising for 100+ Km, the rain eventually rests.

That day, I realized differently. The rain did not stop until Manali. I had breakfast at a dhaba after Panipat under the downpour. I stopped to refuel after entering Himachal and, under the canopy of the fuel station, checked my bags. Both saddlebags had stored water in the rain covers. There was no saving the inside contents from water as I had to continue under the downpour.

3. Your Ride May Not be Solo

The moment I ventured out of Delhi's borders, my bike began to stall under the relentless downpour. Soon enough, I bumped into another Thunderbird rider who was heading to Spiti. Then both of us caught up with another pair riding a single 500CC Royal Enfield. They were also heading to Spiti via Shimla. So, before I could stop for breakfast, I had three more riders for the company on the GT Karnal Road.

I again bumped into a solo rider in Pangi. Unfortunately, his bike got punctured before we could continue on from there, and after several hours of trying we couldn't fix it. I had to leave him and continue alone to Leh. But, I had several opportunities to accompany one rider or the other throughout the route. It's just that going solo was the choice for the trip.

4. Respect the Professionals on the Road

In general, there are few professional drivers on the road. Professional not just in the sense of working as a driver, but also responsible for items far more valuable than anything else on the road. Though you will encounter many, I'm referring only to the truck drivers, especially the long haulers. Most national highways have been built for them, especially in the border areas. So, after military and border security forces, they are the most important users of these roads.

They also double up as the first responders in case of a mishap with passengers on the road. You are more likely to bump into a truck driver on national highways in any emergency situation than the emergency services. I experienced it firsthand while crossing Naki La (Nakee La, 15,547 feet). 

So, all I suggest is appreciate and respect these slow-moving behemoths, especially on dangerous highways. It's not easy moving at 20-23 kmph for extended hours.

5. How to Save Your Bike from Punctures?

Punctures are one of the most annoying issues on the tube tires and a little on the tubeless too. Though your motorcycle is more likely to feature a tubeless tire now, I believe this lesson will be handy. You can avoid punctures on an adventure trip by simply sticking to the tire marks of your predecessors.

If the tarmac is missing from the road, you can always see the tire marks of the preceding vehicles. Stick to those marks and avoid any pile of garbage, and you'd probably avoid a puncture incident. Still, for the worst-case scenario, keep a puncture kit and a pump.

6. Use Tyres for Wet & Muddy Roads

Adventure tires are a no-brainer when going to rough terrain with no certainty of paved roads. However, on cruisers, this could be a choice you must make deliberately. These tires have a lower life on normal roads but perform better in places with no roads or in mud and dirt.

They will save you from slipping and injuries in remote areas and in off-road situations.

7. Avoid Short-Cut Routes

Unless you are habitual of the mountains and uneven open terrains, you should avoid uncharted routes with your vehicle, especially in the Himalayas. The height is pretty high, and angles and slopes are often difficult to guess from a distance, even for a seasoned eye. And often, the paths are unforgiving.

By the time you realize your mistake, you are too far from any relief point. Any slack on your part or your bike will put you straight back a few hours, if not years. I saw a tourist traveler take this newly created JCB route near Pangi. It was a J&K operator, and halfway through, he was stuck and unable to go up or down. 

To everyone's horror, his top-heavy vehicle started to slip backward on that slope. Unfortunately, I didn't stay long to watch his ultimate fate, but that driver deliberately and very foolishly put the lives of at least 20-25 people at risk.

8. Have Adequate Time at Hand

I had 10 days to complete my Leh trip. I'm more of a road person than a destination one. I love being on the road. If I stop to stay, I just fall asleep and forget about adventure and everything. I completed my Leh trip in just 9 days. I left Delhi on Saturday morning and was back in my bed on Sunday night.

But I missed many of the attractions of Leh, especially Khardung La, Nubra, and Pangong Tso. Though 10 days were not enough, I could've covered at least one of them. However, my math went haywire somewhere on those winding roads.

Still, you should keep about 13-15 days at hand on average.

9. Don't Bully the Locals

People in small places like Delhi and other cities and villages often emphasize their 'local' status when dealing with people from different locations. But the real locals in any place are never the people. They are the local flora and fauna. They won't scream or emphasize the fact that they hold the local passport better than you, but sometimes bite you back if you disrespect them.

It happened to me when I was staying at a camp in Sarchu. The camp boys had the fire going in the kitchen and invited me to sit there as it was cold. Sadly, a local rodent member had climbed up on the roof of the tent, and one of the boys tried to shoo him away by hitting the roof. The little critter jumped off and gave a stern look before running away.

In the morning, I found that my bike's brake fluid pipe had been chewed out and disconnected. So, I rode without the rear brakes from Sarchu to Leh and then to Sonamarg. Somewhere before Moray Plains, I realized that my rear brakes were no longer functional. However, on mountain roads, most of the braking is based on the engine. So, I did not feel the need for it until I started preparing to leave Sonamarg. It was finally fixed at Shrinagar. Lesson learned, don't bully the locals or even sit with those who do. 

10. Carry Fuel Cans If Only

Carrying extra jerry cans has been the tradition on the Manali Leh highway. It isn't because there are no fuel stations between Tandi and Leh (approximately 380 Km), but often, you feel like taking a detour and visiting off-beat locations before setting foot in the capital.

You will do so if you plan your travel and have adequate time at hand. So, carry fuel cans only if you are ready to explore the terrain before reaching Leh.